Electrical help.

[dirka dirka]

I'm no electrician or engineer. I took basic electronics and have slightly higher than common sense electrical skill.

I'm trying to make a device for my car that when I lock it with the remote all of windows roll up automatically. The problem with this is that Mitsubishi grounds out all of the control wires when the window switches are in the off position. I'm almost certain I've found a way around this. I don't want to blow yet ANOTHER fuse though. So I'm going to post my schematic and hopefully someone will be able to help.

Note: Terminal 13 is positive and 12 is negative. Terminal 8 is the window roll up positive terminal and 9 is the window roll up negative terminal. Obviously the relays need to be hooked up to a delay circuit thats triggered by the door locks, that's the easy part. Essentially, terminals 13 and 9 need to connect while 12 and 8 connect. The connections above the terminals represent the layout of the control switches while in their off position. The two connections above those represent the door lock connections (which for now I'm going to ignore). Terminals 1 through 14 represent the wire harness.

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/5561/schematicfc7.jpg

[Snowolf]

I can read it, just have no clue how to work it. Reminds me of my little science Kit I used to have :P. Hope you figure it out Dirka.

[Jeffery]

So basically you want to use the 'auto" function to roll the window down compoletely when you hit the unlock button???
I guess more would need to be known about your window switch, as it is not as simple as just 2 wires.
Most driver windows that are automatic are at least a 3 wire hookup now. Some 4. Those with the "auto" feature usually then have an in-switch board that allows it to trip, and roll the window down completely without holding the switch.

Of course, the main problem existing is that when the ignition is off, there is no juice to those systems. I am assuming that you rewired window controls and motors to a circuit that always receives power?

The easiest way after that would be to tap into the "auto" function of the window switch.

[Wizzy`]

I don't understand how Jeffery knows everything about everything.
You ever think about going on who wants to be a millionaire?

NETJAK.COM

[Zander]

I don't understand how Jeffery knows everything about everything.
You ever think about going on who wants to be a millionaire?

NETJAK.COM
He's OLD.

[gryph89]

I'll call up my uncle Henry tomorrow when he's around and print out your schematic. See what he thinks about it.

[dirka dirka]

So basically you want to use the 'auto" function to roll the window down compoletely when you hit the unlock button???
I guess more would need to be known about your window switch, as it is not as simple as just 2 wires.
Most driver windows that are automatic are at least a 3 wire hookup now. Some 4. Those with the "auto" feature usually then have an in-switch board that allows it to trip, and roll the window down completely without holding the switch.

Of course, the main problem existing is that when the ignition is off, there is no juice to those systems. I am assuming that you rewired window controls and motors to a circuit that always receives power?

The easiest way after that would be to tap into the "auto" function of the window switch.

Actually, I want to have the windows roll up automatically when the doors are locked. My car is all about speed, so the interior lacks some basic features, such as automatic window roll down or up. Each window motor only has 2 wires going to them, a ground and a live wire. I did tap the always live connection from my ignition harness.

My biggest problem is that I can't just tap anything. All of the things I tap into are grounded out when not in use, by Mitsubishi. I have to actually bypass the stock wiring to make this work.

I'll call up my uncle Henry tomorrow when he's around and print out your schematic. See what he thinks about it.

Sweet. I'm just hoping there is a better way.